Iran, in a new light
By Lynda Howland
Two men enter a
mosque in Esfahan, Iran. Lynda Howland of Pittsford recently explored the
country with an interfaith peace organization to promote understanding among
cultures.
By Lynda Howland
Daily Messenger
Sat Jul 12, 2008,
06:15 PM EDT
Story Tools:
At dusk in the ancient city of
Shiraz, Iranians place flowers on the grave of the 14th-century Persian poet
Háfiz, then reverently recite his poetry. This was my introduction to the love
Iranians have for their rich, ancient culture.
Iran embraced many civilizations over the millennia and melded them into a
unique national identity. Today the country is composed primarily of Persians,
Azaris and Kurds. Proud of their Aryan/Persian roots, Iranians sometimes take
offense at being called Arabs.
Iranians seem able to separate Americans from their government’s policies.
While anti-American signs are common, the people themselves seduced us with
their irresistibly warm welcome. We were often surrounded by crowds of children
and adults, endlessly curious about us and America. Soldiers passing by in a
truck flashed the peace sign when they heard we were Americans.
Iran is clean, modern and safe. Tehran, the smog-filled capital, is surrounded
by beautiful mountains. There, the modest home of Ayatollah Khomeini, the
father of the 1979 Islamic Revolution that toppled the Shah, contrasts with the
Shah’s opulent palaces. Everywhere are beautiful murals, memorials to martyrs
or clerics and illustrations of verse.
Teahouses, the primary places of social interaction, overflow with
vibrant conversations. Most of the main food options in restaurants are kebabs,
served with bread and rice, with pistachio candies for desert. Outside Tehran
are vast deserts, lakes and snowcapped mountains. We visited Qom, Iran’s
conservative religious center, and the crown jewels of Iranian history,
Persepolis and Esfahan.
Persepolis, Darius the Great's 518 BCE glorious religious hub, was destroyed
circa 333 BCE by Alexander the Great. Esfahan's centerpiece is the huge,
16th-century Naqsh-E Jahan Square, flanked on three sides by majestic
blue-mosaiced palaces and domed mosques, their tiled minarets reaching toward
the heavens. In the square, one gets lost in the maze of bazaars, with their
arrays of artistic goods for sale — calligraphy, carpets, metal work,
engraving, paintings.
Despite numerous invasions, Iranians have maintained their deep religious and
social values and culture. The essence of their culture is rich with meaning
and deeply sensual, as evidenced by its love of music and poetry. Musician
Hossein Alizadeh spoke to us of how singing Háfiz’s poems connects him with his
culture.
Today, Iran struggles to balance modern influences with beloved tradition. At
one gathering in a private home, an Iranian-American youth played traditional
music on the tar and daf, ancient instruments. At another gathering, a young
man played the "Jelly Roll Blues" on piano. He was the son of our
hosts, filmmaker Khosrow Sinai (whose film, "Bride of Fire," recently
played at the High Falls Film Festival in Rochester), and his wife, artist
Farah Ossouli. Sinai summed up the contrasts, saying, “If tradition and
modernity don’t come to an understanding with each other, there will be
catastrophe.”
Unlike many other Middle Eastern nations, Iran has elected officials. Besides
Islam, Christianity, Judaism and Zoroastrianism are officially recognized and
represented in parliament. As a Shia Islamic republic, power in Iran lies with
the Supreme Leader Ayatollah Khamenei, and the Assembly of Experts, who elect
him. Laws are based on the ayatollahs’ interpretation of the holy Qur’an.
Most cultural activities are under government censorship, which often leads to
repression of ideas considered alien to Islam. All women, including tourists,
must wear the hijab (scarf) and manteau, a coat that extends to the knees, in
public. Only in conservative religious cities like Qom are women seen in black
chadors (not berkas), which are full-length “gowns.”
For some, the hijab is a symbol of modesty; for others, oppression. Under the
Shah, women were forbidden to wear it, therefore, many parents chose not to
send their daughters to school. Today, over 65 percent of college students are
women. The hijab has become a fashion statement and Iranian women constantly
push the envelope, hair tumbling out of colorful silk scarves and
sequined jeans under their coats. Women are very much present in artistic,
cultural and professional areas despite many Islamic prohibitions.
Our group of 14 included several American experts in Iranian history,
government, religion and nuclear issues. We were sponsored by an Iranian
government group, giving us access to political leaders, religious figures such
as ayatollahs, archbishops of the Armenian and Caldean Churches and members of
the Jewish community. We also attended a multi-nation meeting about Iran’s
nuclear program, at which Minister of Foreign Affairs Dr. Mottaki spoke.
I was most touched by our conversation with Mohammed Khatami, former president
of Iran and a leader of the reform movement. His engaging manner and surprising
footwear (penny loafers) contrasted with his black robe and turban. The
black turban indicates that he is a direct descendant of Mohammed. He hopes for
better relations with the United States, calling for “a dialogue of
civilizations,” but says the Bush administration has destroyed these hopes by
ignoring Iran’s numerous offers for unconditional negotiations. He remarked,
“Despite the hostile confrontation between our two countries, we can look deep
down and find factors that serve the interest of both countries.”
The message we heard repeatedly was that Iran does not want war, does not have
a modern history of expansionism, and has repeatedly called for a nuclear-free
Middle East. And, Iran believes it has the right to a role in regional
decisions and is concerned about America’s attempts to diminish it.
Many Iranians we met expressed strong dissatisfaction with their government,
but resented outside interference in their country. “You can help us by leaving
us alone to solve our own problems,” one woman said, a sentiment echoed by the
Armenian archbishop.
Iran is full of contradictions and often seen through a distorted political
lens. It’s not a paragon of democracy, nor is it part of an “Axis of Evil.”
Unfortunately, politics causes us to lose sight of the universal core of
humanity that could unite us as friends if the madness of fear and war were not
so prevalent.
Inter-action Link:
• www.forusa.org — The home page for
the Fellowship of Reconciliation, an interfaith peace organization that sends
delegates to Iran and other locations to promote cultural understanding.
http://www.mpnnow.com/lifestyle/x518437137/Iran-in-a-new-light
